Waves, Tides, and Tsunamis

Waves

  • Formation: Generated by wind blowing over the ocean surface. The stronger the wind and the longer it blows, the larger the waves.
  • Characteristics:
    • Crest: The highest point of a wave.
    • Trough: The lowest point of a wave.
    • Wavelength: The horizontal distance between two successive crests or troughs.
    • Wave Height: The vertical distance between the crest and the trough.
    • Wave Period: The time it takes for two successive crests to pass a fixed point.  
  • Types:
    • Wind Waves: Generated by wind.
    • Tsunamis: Large waves caused by underwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, or landslides.
    • Tides: Periodic rise and fall of sea level caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and Sun.

Tides

  • Formation: Primarily caused by the gravitational pull of the Moon and, to a lesser extent, the Sun.
  • Types:
    • Spring Tides: Occur when the Sun, Moon, and Earth are aligned, resulting in higher high tides and lower low tides.
    • Neap Tides: Occur when the Sun and Moon are at right angles to each other, resulting in smaller tidal ranges.  
  • Importance: Tides influence coastal ecosystems, navigation, and fishing.

Tsunamis

  • Formation: Triggered by large underwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, or landslides.
  • Characteristics:
    • Long wavelengths and long periods.
    • In deep water, they are barely noticeable.
    • As they approach shallow water, they slow down and increase in height, becoming destructive waves.
  • Impact: Tsunamis can cause widespread devastation, including flooding, erosion, and loss of life.

Key Differences:

FeatureWavesTidesTsunamis
CauseWindGravitational pull of Moon and SunUnderwater earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, landslides
WavelengthRelatively shortLongVery long
HeightVaries depending on wind strengthPredictable, moderate changesCan be extremely high
PeriodShort12-24 hoursLong periods
ImpactPrimarily erosion and shaping coastlinesInfluences coastal ecosystems and navigationCan cause widespread destruction

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